
Get started growing.
Starting a cutting garden can be a rewarding and enjoyable endeavor, allowing you to grow beautiful flowers for arrangements and bouquets right in your own backyard. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you get started.​1. Understand Your Growing Climate and SpaceBefore planting, it’s crucial to assess your growing environment. Determine your USDA hardiness zone, which will inform you about the types of plants that thrive in your area. Additionally, evaluate the sunlight available in your chosen location; most cut flowers require full sun, meaning at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. Observe any potential obstructions such as trees or buildings that may cast shadows on your garden space.​2. Choose the Right LocationSelect a site that receives ample sunlight and is easily accessible for maintenance and harvesting. Ideally, this should be a well-drained area with good soil quality. If your soil is poor or compacted, consider creating raised beds filled with high-quality soil to improve drainage and nutrient availability.​3. Decide on the Size of Your Garden. The size of your cutting garden can vary based on the space available and how much time you can commit to gardening. Beginners might start small—perhaps just one raised bed—while more experienced gardeners may opt for larger plots. A micro-cutting garden can still yield plenty of flowers even in limited spaces.​4. Select Your FlowersChoose a variety of flowers that bloom at different times throughout the growing season to ensure continuous blooms for cutting. Popular choices include:Annuals: Zinnias, cosmos, sunflowers, marigolds, and snapdragons are excellent options due to their vibrant colors and long blooming periods.Perennials: While they take longer to establish, varieties like peonies, coneflowers, and daisies can provide beautiful blooms year after year.Filler Plants: Incorporate greenery or filler plants such as sweet alyssum or statice to complement your bouquets.​5. Prepare Your SoilOnce you’ve selected your location and flower varieties, prepare the soil by removing weeds and debris. Loosen the soil using a garden fork or tiller to improve aeration and drainage. You may want to amend the soil with compost or organic matter to enhance fertility.​6. Plant Your Seeds or Seedlings, follow the instructions on seed packets regarding planting depth and spacing requirements. If starting seeds indoors (especially in colder climates), transplant them outdoors after the last frost date when they are strong enough to handle outdoor conditions.​7. Watering and MaintenanceRegular watering is essential for establishing young plants; aim for consistent moisture without waterlogging the soil. Mulching around plants can help retain moisture while suppressing weeds. Monitor for pests and diseases regularly; organic methods such as neem oil can be effective if issues arise.​8. Harvesting FlowersTo enjoy fresh blooms throughout the season, harvest flowers regularly by cutting them early in the morning when they are hydrated but before they fully open for maximum longevity in arrangements. Use sharp scissors or pruning shears to make clean cuts at an angle.​9. Enjoy Your Blooms!With proper care, you’ll have an abundance of beautiful flowers ready for cutting throughout the growing season! Arrange them in vases around your home or share them with friends and family.​By following these steps, you’ll create a flourishing cut flower garden that not only beautifies your space but also provides fresh blooms whenever you desire.
My Story
SEED STARTING TIPS:
PUMPKIN ON A STICK:
Start seeds indoors: Begin seeds indoors 4–6 weeks before the last frost in your area.
Plant in rich, well-drained soil: Add compost to the soil before planting.
Provide full sun: Pumpkin on a stick needs full sun to produce the best flowers and fruit.
Water regularly: Pumpkin on a stick needs consistent moisture, but avoid soggy soil. In hot weather, water it 1–2 inches per week.
Space plants: Space plants about 3 feet apart in the garden.
Stake the plants: The stems of pumpkin on a stick are strong, but staking can help prevent branches from breaking.
-
Harvest: Pumpkin on a stick is ready to harvest 65–70 days after transplanting.
-
Use as a decoration: The fruit can be used as a festive autumn decoration. You can cut the sticks and place them in a vase or keep the plant in a pot.
Pumpkin on a stick is a tropical plant that is part of the nightshade family and is related to tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers. It can grow to be 3–4 feet tall and 2–3 feet wide. The leaves and stems are thorny, so be careful when handling the plant.
FIREWORKS GOMPHRENA:
Start indoors: Sow seeds in a pre-moistened seed-starting mix 6–8 weeks before the last frost. Soak the seeds for a day or two to speed up germination.
Grow under lights: Place seedlings under lights until they have at least two sets of true leaves.
Harden off: Before planting outdoors, harden off the seedlings to prepare them for the transition.
Plant outdoors: After the danger of frost has passed, plant the seedlings outdoors about 8 inches apart.
Choose a location: Plant in a location that receives full sun and has well-drained soil.
Space plants: Allow enough room between plants for good air circulation.
Water: Water thoroughly and apply a light layer of mulch to conserve water and reduce weeds.
Fertilize: Apply a nitrate-form fertilizer with low phosphorus once a week.
Gomphrena Fireworks is a vigorous annual that can tolerate high heat and humidity. It blooms throughout the growing season until a hard freeze. The flowers are long-lasting and maintain their color even when cut and dried.
FLAMINGO FEATHERS:
When to plant: Sow seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before the last spring frost, or directly outdoors after the frost. Celosia plants are heat-loving and can't tolerate cold temperatures or frost.
How to plant: You can sow seeds in trays, punnets, or jiffy pots. Fill them with a good quality seed-raising mix or soil starter pellets. Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep, and lightly mist them with a spray bottle to cover them.
Where to plant : Place the pots or trays in a warm area with indirect sunlight, or use grow lights.
How to transplant: Transplant seedlings to the garden when they are large enough to handle and have their first true leaves, usually when they are 5–10 cm tall.
How to space: Space plants 9–18 inches apart, depending on the type.
How to care for : Celosia plants need regular watering and full sun, but avoid keeping the soil too wet.
How to encourage branching: Pinch back the plants when they are less than 8 inches tall. Use clippers to remove the top of the plant, leaving only 2–3 sets of leaves behind.
Celosia plants are easy to grow and require little maintenance. They can reseed themselves and return the next year in climates where they are grown as an annual. In warmer climates, they can be grown as a perennial.
AMARANTH:
When to plant: S0w seeds outdoors after the last frost in mid spring to early summer. You can also start seeds indoors 4–8 weeks before the last frost.
Where to plant: Amaranth grows best in full sun with well-drained soil enriched with compost. It can grow in partial shade, but needs at least 6 hours of sunlight.
How to plant: Sprinkle seeds on top of the soil and lightly press down. Don't bury them deep, as they need light to germinate.
Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist until the seeds germinate.
Thinning: When the seedlings are 4 inches tall, thin them to 18 inches apart.
Supporting: If you're growing a row or block of amaranth plants, use netting or metal supports. For a few plants, a large tomato cage may be enough.
Harvesting: Amaranth can be used as a cut flower or dried flower.
CATHERINE CELOSIA:
When to plant: Sow seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before the last spring frost, or directly outdoors after the frost. Celosia plants are heat-loving and can't tolerate cold temperatures or frost.
How to plant: You can sow seeds in trays, punnets, or jiffy pots. Fill them with a good quality seed-raising mix or soil starter pellets. Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep, and lightly mist them with a spray bottle to cover them.
Where to plant : Place the pots or trays in a warm area with indirect sunlight, or use grow lights.
How to transplant: Transplant seedlings to the garden when they are large enough to handle and have their first true leaves, usually when they are 5–10 cm tall.
How to space: Space plants 9–18 inches apart, depending on the type.
How to care for : Celosia plants need regular watering and full sun, but avoid keeping the soil too wet.
How to encourage branching: Pinch back the plants when they are less than 8 inches tall. Use clippers to remove the top of the plant, leaving only 2–3 sets of leaves behind.
Celosia plants are easy to grow and require little maintenance. They can reseed themselves and return the next year in climates where they are grown as an annual. In warmer climates, they can be grown as a perennial.
BLACK BOY BACHELOR BUTTON:
When to plant: Sow seeds in late winter or early spring, after the last frost. The ideal germination temperature is 60–65°F.
Where to plant: Choose a location with full sun and well-draining soil.
How to plant: Sow seeds thinly in rows, 1/4 inch deep, and lightly cover with soil.
Watering: Keep the soil moist until the seeds emerge. After planting, water lightly, and keep the seeds well-watered during germination.
Thinning: When the seedlings have their first true leaves, thin them to 6–9 inches apart.
Mulching: After the seedlings mature, add a layer of mulch to reduce water evaporation.
Here are some other tips for growing bachelor's buttons:
-
If you're using saved seeds, you can cold treat them for five days before sowing.
-
Bachelor's buttons are a good choice for beginners because they can tolerate cold temperatures and frost.
-
They're well-suited to a range of soil conditions, but they do best in beds with a neutral pH or that are slightly acidic.
-
You can add compost or fertilizer at planting time to supply nutrients for the season.
-
Bachelor's buttons are rarely affected by pests or disease, but you should monitor for common garden insects like aphids or mealybugs.
-
Bachelor's buttons are also known as cornflowers. They traditionally come in pale blue, but they can also be pink, purple, white, or black.
BLUE GLOBE THISTLE:
When to plant: You can sow seeds directly in the garden in the fall or start them indoors 6–8 weeks before the last frost.
Where to plant: Globe thistles prefer full sun and well-drained soil. They can tolerate partial shade and grow well in poor, sandy, or rocky soils.
How to plant: Press seeds into the soil surface and lightly cover them with soil. You can also sow seeds indoors in a soil-less mix and press them into the mix without covering.
Germination: Germination can take 10–20 days indoors and 2–4 weeks outdoors, depending on temperature.
Watering: Water regularly while establishing, then only during especially dry, hot spells.
Transplanting: Once seedlings have produced the first two pairs of true leaves, you can pot on and then plant out as soon as well rooted.
Deadheading: Deadhead the blooms in early fall to control where the plant grows. You can also cut back to the ground in autumn to keep the ball-shaped seed heads.
Dividing: You can divide established globe thistles by digging out a large rooted section in spring or autumn. However, the large taproot makes it difficult to divide or transplant a mature globe thistle plant successfully.
BLACK EYED SUSAN:
When to plant: Plant seeds in early spring when the soil temperature is around 70° F. You can also sow seeds in late summer or fall, or even in the winter in mild climates.
Cold stratification: To improve germination, you can cold stratify the seeds by mixing them with moist sand or a paper towel and placing them in a sealed bag in the fridge for about six weeks.
How to plant: Sow seeds directly on the soil's surface, pressing them down lightly and leaving them uncovered. You can plant seeds closer together to prevent the plants from spreading.
Where to plant: Black-eyed Susans grow best in full sun but can tolerate partial shade. They can thrive in many types of soil, including clay.
Watering: Water seeds lightly after sowing. Container-grown plants may need more frequent watering.
Staking: Taller varieties may need staking to provide support. You can use a stake and twine, or weave a lattice around the stems.
Deadheading: Remove dead or wilted flowers to encourage the plant to regrow and bloom again.
Fertilizing: Fertilize container-grown plants once a year in the spring. You can also use a slow-release organic fertilizer to keep the soil active.
PINK CONEFLOWER:
When to plant: Sow seeds in early spring when the soil temperature is between 70–75°F (21–24°C). You can also sow seeds in the fall and protect them with fencing to keep out animals.
Where to plant: Sow seeds in weed-free soil. You can plant them directly in the garden, in a container, or indoors under grow lights.
How to plant: Broadcast seeds on the soil's surface and lightly compress them. You can also place each seed about ¼–½ inch deep in the soil. Space seeds about 18–24 inches apart.
Watering: After planting, lightly moisten the soil and keep it consistently moist until the seeds germinate. Avoid waterlogging, which can cause the seeds to rot.
Transplanting: Once the seedlings have their second set of true leaves, usually about six weeks after sowing, you can transplant them into their final growing positions. Prepare a planting hole that's twice as wide and just as deep as the seedling's root ball.
Harden off: Gradually expose the seedlings to outdoor conditions to help them get ready for the big world.
You can also grow coneflowers in containers. The container should be at least two gallons and have drainage holes. Place the container in full sun after planting.
WHITE CONEFLOWER:
When to plant: Sow seeds in early spring when the soil temperature is between 70–75°F (21–24°C). You can also sow seeds in the fall and protect them with fencing to keep out animals.
Where to plant: Sow seeds in weed-free soil. You can plant them directly in the garden, in a container, or indoors under grow lights.
How to plant: Broadcast seeds on the soil's surface and lightly compress them. You can also place each seed about ¼–½ inch deep in the soil. Space seeds about 18–24 inches apart.
Watering: After planting, lightly moisten the soil and keep it consistently moist until the seeds germinate. Avoid waterlogging, which can cause the seeds to rot.
Transplanting: Once the seedlings have their second set of true leaves, usually about six weeks after sowing, you can transplant them into their final growing positions. Prepare a planting hole that's twice as wide and just as deep as the seedling's root ball.
Harden off: Gradually expose the seedlings to outdoor conditions to help them get ready for the big world.
You can also grow coneflowers in containers. The container should be at least two gallons and have drainage holes. Place the container in full sun after planting.
PAINTED DAISY:
To plant painted daisy seeds, you can either sow them indoors or directly in the garden:
Start indoors: Sow seeds in a potting mix 4–6 weeks before the last frost date. Place the seeds in a spot with indirect sunlight and keep the soil moist but not soggy. Seeds should germinate in 2–3 weeks. Once the danger of frost has passed, transplant the seedlings outdoors, spacing them 18–24 inches apart.
Sow directly in the garden: In early spring, sow seeds in a sunny location with fertile, well-drained soil. Cover the seeds lightly with soil and keep the soil moist until seedlings appear. Once seedlings appear, thin them to space them 18–24 inches apart.
Here are some other tips for growing painted daisies:
-
Pinch back young plants to keep them bushy.
-
Deadhead regularly.
-
Taller plants may require staking.
-
In hotter climates, provide some afternoon shade to prevent the plants from burning.
-
Water the daisies once a week, or more if there's no rain.
-
Cut the plant back after the summer blooms fade to encourage a second bloom in autumn.
-
To overwinter, leave the foliage on the plants until spring and mulch heavily around the crown of the plant.
SWAMP MILKWEED:
To plant swamp milkweed seeds, you can follow these steps:
Cold stratify: Before planting, you can cold stratify the seeds to break dormancy and improve germination. You can keep the seeds in a refrigerator until planting time.
Plant in moist soil: Swamp milkweed prefers moist conditions, so plant the seeds in loose, moist soil.
Sow seeds: Scatter the seeds on the soil surface, about 1/4–1/2 inch apart. Lightly cover with soil and water well.
Provide full sun: Swamp milkweed requires full sun.
Water regularly: Keep the soil damp but not soggy until the plants are 3–5 inches tall.
Remove weeds: Periodically remove competing weeds.
Avoid chemicals: Avoid using insecticides or herbicides in areas planted with milkweed.
Swamp milkweed is a perennial, so it will come back year after year. The aerial parts of the plant will die back, but the rootstock will remain alive through the winter. You can cut back the stalks in late fall or winter after the seeds have matured.
HARDY PAMPAS GRASS:
When to plant: Sow seeds indoors 8–10 weeks before planting outside, or directly sow in early spring or early autumn.
How to plant: Place seeds on top of the soil and gently press them in. You can mix the seeds with fine sand to help with even sowing. Avoid covering the seeds with compost.
Where to plant: Place the tray in a plastic bag and keep it in a bright, indirect sunlight area.
How to care: Keep the soil moist until germination, which usually takes 1–3 weeks. Once the seedlings are 1–2 inches tall, thin them out and repot them into larger containers.
When to plant outside: Plant the seedlings outdoors in late spring or early summer. Space multiple plantings 6–7 feet apart
SNOWBALL FEVERFEW:
When to plant: Sow seeds about two weeks before the last frost. You can also start seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before the last frost.
Where to plant: Sow seeds in a location with full sun.
How to plant: Lightly press seeds into the soil's surface and don't cover them. Light helps the seeds germinate.
How to care for: Keep the soil moist, but not wet or dry. Water deeply in the early morning or late afternoon, and avoid watering the leaves.
When to transplant: Transplant seedlings to the garden when they have their first true leaves and are large enough to handle. Space plants 12–40 cm apart.
How to maintain: Pinch back seedlings when they reach about 6 in tall to encourage bushiness. Deadhead regularly to avoid excess self-sowing.
Feverfew is a flowering herb that's easy to care for and can tolerate drought. It's part of the Aster family, which also includes echinacea, marigolds, and zinnias.
MIDNIGHT MARVEL HIBISCUS:
When to plant: Sow seeds indoors 10–14 weeks before the last spring frost.
Prepare the seeds: Soak seeds in room temperature water for 1–8 hours to speed up germination. You can also nick the hard outer coating of the seed with a knife to help water penetrate.
Plant the seeds: Plant seeds ¼ inch deep in a seed-starting mix or potting soil.
Provide light and warmth: Keep the soil moist and at a temperature of 70–75°F. Place the seeds in a sunny windowsill or under fluorescent plant lights for 16 hours a day.
Transplant seedlings: When seedlings have at least two pairs of true leaves, transplant them to 3–4 inch pots.
Harden off seedlings: Before planting in the garden, move the seedlings to a sheltered outdoor location for a week to accustom them to outdoor conditions. Protect them from wind and hot sun.
Plant in the garden: The best time to plant hibiscus in the garden is in the spring after the last frost. Dig a hole that's double the size of the pot, place the plant in the hole, and water.
Hibiscus plants thrive in warm environments, such as the southern United States. In the north, they grow best in full sun, while in the south, they may prefer partial shade.
BLUE BAPTISTA:
Stratify: If you're saving seeds for later, you can chill them in the fridge for 6–12 weeks.
Scarify: Wear down the hard seed coat with sandpaper or a sharp knife.
Soak: Soak the seeds in water for 24 hours before planting.
Sow: Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in a well-drained seed mix. You can sow them directly outdoors in late fall or early spring. You can also start seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before the last frost.
Provide heat: Provide bottom heat at 75 °F until plants emerge.
Transplant: Transplant seedlings outside after the last spring frost, or in early autumn.
Be patient: BaptisTa plants grow slowly and may not bloom for at least 2–3 years.
BaptisTa, also known as false indigo or wild indigo, is a member of the pea family. It's native to the prairies of southern North America and can grow in USDA planting zones 5–9. BaptisTa prefers full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil.
COREOPSIS:
Sow directly in the garden: After the last frost, sow seeds 1/2 inch deep and 30–80 cm apart in moist, well-drained soil. Don't cover the seeds, as they need light to germinate.
Start seeds indoors: In late winter or early spring, sow seeds in a seed-starting mix in pots or trays. Keep the soil moist and warm. When the seedlings have their first true leaves, transplant them to the garden.
Acclimate seedlings to the outdoors: If you started seeds indoors, take the seedlings outside for long periods each day for about a week to slowly acclimate them to the outdoors.
Here are some other tips for growing coreopsis:
-
Water: Water thoroughly when you plant, and keep the soil moist but not wet.
-
Thin: Thin seedlings to 12–18 inches apart as they grow.
-
Deadhead: Remove spent flowers by clipping the stem back to the nearest healthy leaves. This encourages the plant to bloom longer.
-
Divide: Every three years or so, divide perennial coreopsis in spring or early fall if they start to look weak.
-
Protect from pests: Slugs and snails may attack young plants. You can wash aphids off stems with a strong stream of water.
-
Avoid over-feeding: Over-feeding can lead to leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
Choose the right location: Coreopsis requires full sun and well-drained soil. It can tolerate drought and less-than-ideal conditions.
GARLIC CHIVES:
Start indoors: In early spring, sow seeds in small pots or trays filled with seed compost. Cover with a thin layer of vermiculite and water gently. Place in a warm, bright location to germinate. Once seedlings are 2–3 inches tall, transplant them outdoors.
Start outdoors: In early spring, sow seeds in moist, well-drained soil in full sun to part shade. Cover seeds 1/4 inch deep and press soil firmly over them. Thin seedlings to 12 inches apart when they are 2 inches tall.
Here are some tips for growing garlic chives:
-
Garlic chives are perennials that can grow up to 24 inches tall and 12 inches wide. They have edible leaves and white flowers that bloom in late spring and summer.
-
Garlic chives grow slowly at first, but mature into sturdy mounds.
-
To encourage regrowth, shear the entire plant back to 4 inches after it blooms.
-
Regular harvesting by clipping the leaves will promote more vigorous growth.
-
Avoid planting garlic chives near asparagus, peas, spinach, and beans, as they compete for similar nutrients.
-
Chives will continue to grow with 4–6 hours of sunlight a day, but they'll grow slower and probably won't flower.
SPOTTED BEE BALM:
Start indoors: Sow seeds 6–8 weeks before the last frost in peat pots, 1/16 inch deep. Keep the soil moist and at a temperature of around 70°F in bright light.
Direct sow: In early spring, lightly press seeds into the soil's surface.
Germination: Seeds should germinate within 10–20 days.
Thinning: When seedlings are big enough to handle, thin them to 12–18 inches apart.
Transplanting: Transplant seedlings to their permanent location when they have a few sets of true leaves.
Watering: Water regularly, especially during dry periods, but avoid overwatering.
Mulching: Mulch with a 2-inch layer of organic material to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Deadheading: Regularly deadhead to encourage the plant to continue blooming.
Harvesting: For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened.
Saving seeds: When the flower spikes dry and turn brown, remove them and spread them out to dry. Thresh them to remove the seed, or shake the entire plant's seed heads into a container. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Spotted bee balm is a native perennial mint that can grow up to 48 inches tall. It's drought tolerant and thrives in dry, sandy conditions. It attracts hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.
BLUE SEA HOLLY:
Sow in fall or early spring: Direct sow the seeds in the garden after a killing frost. You can also sow them in pots indoors 10–16 weeks before the last frost.
Prepare the soil: Sea holly prefers well-drained, sandy soil with a neutral pH (6.1–7.8). You can prepare a propagation bed with sand, vermiculite, or perlite.
Plant the seeds: Sow the seeds on the surface of the soil and cover them lightly with a thin layer of planting medium.
Provide light: Sea holly seeds need light to germinate.
Water: Check for moisture regularly and water as needed.
Stratify if sowing in spring: If you're sowing in the spring, you can stratify the seeds in the fridge for three weeks to improve germination. To do this, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in a plastic bag in the fridge.
Transplant: When the seedlings are ready, transplant them 18–24 inches apart.
Sea holly is a drought-tolerant perennial that can tolerate heat, humidity, and salt. It blooms from June to September, and its blue flowers attract bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.
FALSE SUNFLOWER:
When to plant: You can plant false sunflower seeds in early spring or early fall. If you start them indoors, you should plant them 4–6 weeks before the last frost date.
Where to plant: False sunflowers prefer full sun or partial shade and well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soil. They can tolerate a range of soil types, including nutrient-poor soils, and are relatively drought-tolerant once established.
How to plant: You can sow seeds directly outside or start them indoors:
Directly outside: Prepare the area by removing weeds and loosening the soil. Hand broadcast the seeds evenly over the area and lightly water them.
Indoors: Plant the seeds in rich, loamy, well-draining potting soil. Keep the soil moist but not overwet. After about 10 weeks, when the seedlings are ready, you can transplant them outside. Before transplanting, you should harden off the seedlings.
How to care for: False sunflowers are generally low-maintenance plants. You can encourage continuous blooming and prevent self-seeding by deadheading spent blooms. You can also cut back the plant by half in early June to prevent it from flopping.
DRAGON FIRE STRAWFLOWER
DAYS TO GERMINATION: 7-10 days at 70-75°F (21-24°C)
SOWING:
Transplant (recommended) - Sow into 72-cell flats or preferred seedling container 4-6 weeks before planting out. Do not cover seed as light is required for germination. Harden off and transplant out after danger of frost. Bottom water or mist to avoid covering seeds. Direct seed - Where summers are long. Once established, prefers well-drained soils and temps of 70-75°F (21-24°C). Plants may need support. Pinching is recommended to encourage uniform and productive branching.
LIGHT PREFERENCE: Sun.
PLANT HEIGHT: 36-40". May require some support.
PLANT SPACING: 10-12".
HARDINESS ZONES: Annual.
STEM LENGTH: 12-20".
VASE LIFE: 7-10 days.
STORAGE TEMPERATURE: 70-75°F (21-24°C).
HARVEST:
Keep blooms harvested or deadheaded for optimal yields. Fresh or dried: Cut when 2-3 layers of petals have unfolded but before flowers fully open to reveal center. Note: Blooms that are very open, past optimal maturity, will close in the dark of night and on dark, overcast days. These blooms can appear as if they are at the at a good stage for cutting, though they are over mature. To avoid these misleading blooms, harvest on bright mornings or let your harvested blooms set in light for a few hours. Over mature blooms should open back up for identification and discard. Avoiding over mature blooms is especially important if being used for drying as blooms continue to open during the drying process. When dried, over mature blooms will shatter (fall apart) and appear discolored.
SOIL REQUIREMENTS: Average soil with good drainage.
USES: Excellent dried flower. Borders and back of beds.
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Helichrysum bracteatum
WHITE WOOD ASTER
Asters prefer areas with cool, moist summers and cool nights in sites with full to partial sun. In warmer climates, asters do not like the hot midday sun. Soil should be moist but well-draining and loamy. Wet clay soil will lead to root rot, and dry sandy soil will lead to plant wilt. Mix 2 to 3 inches of compost into the soil before planting.
When to Plant Asters: The best time to put young aster plants in the ground is in mid- to late spring after the danger of frost has passed. (See local frost dates.) Or, you can plant mature, potted asters when available at garden centers (typically in the late summer or early fall).
Asters can be grown from seed, but germination can be uneven. If desired, plant seeds in the fall or start them indoors in the winter.
How to Plant Asters: When planting young aster plants outside in the spring, space them 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the type and how large they’re expected to get.
Fully grown asters, such as those available in late summer or early fall, should be planted about 3 feet apart.
If planting seeds, sow 1 inch deep in pots or flats and refrigerate them for 4 to 6 weeks to simulate winter dormancy. This cold period will kick-start germination.
Water well, and spread mulch around the plants to keep the soil cool and prevent weeds.
Asters are highly attractive to pollinators, especially bees and butterflies.
Growing : Add a thin layer of compost (or a portion of balanced fertilizer) with a 2-inch layer of mulch around the plants every spring to encourage vigorous growth.
If less than 1 inch of rain falls weekly in summer, water regularly. But beware: Many asters are sensitive to too much or too little moisture. They will lose their lower foliage or not flower well. Watch for stress and try a different watering method if your plants lose flowers.
Stake the tall varieties to keep them from falling over.
Pinch or cut back asters by one-third once or twice in the early summer to promote bushier growth and more blooms. Don’t worry; they can take it! Do the Chelsea Chop!
In winter, cut back asters after the foliage has died, or leave them through the winter to add some off-season interest to your garden. Birds may munch on the seeds, too.
Note: Aster flowers that mature fully may reseed themselves. The resulting asters may not bloom true to their parent. (In other words, you may not get the same color flowers you planted initially!)
Divide every 2 to 3 years in the spring to maintain your plant’s vigor and flower quality.
Contact
I'm always looking for new and exciting opportunities. Let's connect.
123-456-7890